Shoe-sewing machine.



F. E. BEGKMAN.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 20, 1 912.

Llfllfifi g Patented June 23 1914.

5 SHEETSSHBBT l;

F. E. BEUKMAN.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

AEELIUATION FILED JAR. 20, 191

Patented 5mm 1914.

5 SHEETS-3133! 2.

a X WW F. E BBGKMAN. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION IILED JAN. 20, 1912.

' Patented June 23, 19M

BSHEETS-SHEBT 3.

mo -m '15. E. BEGKMAN. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 20, 1912.

1 1 0 1 238, v Patmte June 23,

a SHEETS-Brim? 73/ I r. E. BEOKMAN.

SHOE SEWING MAGHINE. ABBLIGATION FILED IAILZO, 1912. 1,101 23 PatentedJune 23, 1914.

5 SHEETSSHEET 5.

UNITED sTA'rns .PA'rENi' orrion.

FRANK E. BECKMAN, OF HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOEMACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

morass.-

Specifieation of Letters Patent.

. Patented June 23, 1914.

0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK E. Becki-IAN, a citizen of the United States,residing at Haverhilh in the county of Essex and State ofivlassachusctts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inShoe-Sewing idachines; and I do hereby declare the following: to be atalk-clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enableothers skilled in the artto which it appertains to make and the same.

The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines and particularlyto those types of machini-is which are employed to sew the welt to alasted shoe.

in welt sewing machines of the type illustrated, as now commonly built,the work is fed by a feed point and a channel guide which are moved inthe direction of the feed of the work by a longitudinally moving feedslide, and are held in engagement with the work during the work feedingmovement of the slide. After the needle has penetrated the work the feedpoint and the channel guide are released from the work and moved backalong the line of feed in preparation for the next feeding movement. Thewell is positioned against the shoe by means of a welt guide throughwhich the welt is drawn. During the rct'ractive stroke of the needle thewelt guide is locked a ainst the work acting to hold the welt inst theshoe so that it cannot be drawn away from the shoe by the retraction ofthe needle. After the needle has reached the limit of its retractivcstroke and is stationary, the welt guide is withdrawn baclnvardly atright angles to the surface of the work, which is fed along by the Feedpoint and channel guide simultaneously with the backward movementof thewelt guiile. 'lhe combined movements of ,l; g 'uidc and the work not tomeasure l..r h the welt guide a sutlicient length ot' waiting for thenext stitch. Such a n1 vement oi the welt guide in measuring the eltinvolves certain disadvantages. The movement ofthe welt guide away fromthe work at right angles tends to pull the welt away from the we k andto loosen the precedin" stitch. tiucha movement ot-the welt guide alsoat to the plane in which the welting strip lies in its approach to thework so that the welting strip bent sharply as it emerges from the mouthof the welt guide aperture ihstantially a right angleand is not drawnfreely from the welt guide aperture.

Oneobject of the present invention is to provide im roved means wherebythe welt may be free y drawn or measured through the welt guide.

With this object in View, the present invention contemplates improvedmeans whereby the welt guide shall have its welt measur ing movementtake place in the plane in which the welt normally lies in its approachto the work. Such movement may preferably, but not necessarily, occur atthe time when the work is positively locked in position by the needle.

The present invention also contemplates imparting to the welt guide amovement of approach to the surface of the work to press the weltagainst it, and simultaneously a movement in the direction of feed ofthe.

work. The welt guide, in moving in the direction of feed of the work,serves to carry the welt along with the shoe and so assists the feedpoint and channel guide in fceding the work. The welt guide, by virtueof its combined movements of approach to the work in the direction offeed, acts to press the welt into position, and also to gather or crimpthe well; against the'shoe, since in sewing, especially around thecurved parts of the shoe, it is desirable that the welt should not bestretched along the line of stitching, but should be loosely laid oreven pushed forward to be gathered or crimpe-d slightly along the lineof stitching which unites itwith the insole, for the reason that whenthe welt is subsequently laid flat the length of its outer edge isgreater than that ol the inner edge where it is sewn to the insole.Since the weltgnide measures the welt while the needle is in the work,the welt guide will have assumed a position away from the surface of theshoe at the time when the needle is beihg retracted through the work andhence it is desirable that some means be employed to hold the weltagainst the shoe to prevent its being lifted by the backwardloop-drawing movement of the needle. 1

Thepresent invention contemplates the employment of means, such as a wor-011- gaging finger. which shall be held against the welt in theneighborhood of the stitch being, formed during the retractive movement"of the needle to prevent the welt from being lifted from the shoe. Thiswork engaging linger also bears against the Work while the welt guide isbeing swung backwardly away from the work, and will resist any tendencythat the backward movement of the welt guide might have to lift the weltguide from the shoe.

Other features of the present invention relate to certain constructions,arrangements and combinations of parts hereinafter described, theadvantages of which will be apparent to those skilled in the art fromthe following description.

In the drawings the. referred embodiment of the invention is lllustratedin connection with the well-known Goodyear welt and turn machine whichis illustrated and described in the patent to French and Meyer No.412,704, October 8th, 1889, this sewing machine of French and Meyerbeing provided with the thread tension releasing device of La ChapelleNo. 488,505, December 20, 1892, as is usual in the present commercialtype of machine. It is to be understood, however, that the invention isequall applicable'to other typesof sewing mac lines, and that it can beotherwise embodied without departing from the spirit of our invention.

Referring to the drawings, Figure '1 is a 'front elevation of the headof the machine embodying the preferred form of our invention; Fig. 2 isa side elevation taken partly iii-section looking from the right-handside of the machine; Fig. 3 is a side elevation taken partly in sectionlooking from the left-hand side of the machine; Figs. 4 and 5 aresectional views taken on the line X'X of Fig. 2; Fig. 1 indicating theposition of the parts as the work is about to be fed for- 'wardly, andFig. 5 indicating their position after the work feeding motion has takenplace; Figs. 6, 7 and 8 are fragmentary sections taken on the line XX ofFig. 2 and illustrating different steps of the needle threadingoperation; and Fig. 9 is a view 2 showing a vertical section of the weltguide.

Referring to the drawings, 1 indicates generally .the frame of themachine in which is journaled the driving shaft 2 which bears the camwheels for actuating the various spectively.

8 indicates the curved hook needle operated by suitable levers and cams,and 9 indicates a take-up which cooperates with the other usual threadrolls in' controlling the supply of thread to the needle and the work,which is shown as the insole 10 andupper 11 of a lasted shoe to which isbeingsewn shaft 2 is indicated by the arrow in Fig. 3.

The above parts are constructed and arranged to operate in a well-knownmanner, substantially as set forth in the French and Meyer and the LaChapelle patents, and further description thereof is consideredunnecessary.

The welt guide 16 is pivotally mounted upon the forward end of a slidingbar 17 which is normally held in its forward position by a helicalspring 18 to hold the welt uide' in engagement with the work. -Theorward movement of the slide bar 17 under the action of its spring islimited by a shOulder 19 formedv upon the slide bar which is adapted tostrike against the; adjustable screw 20 mounted in a fixed part of themachine frame. By adjusting the screw 20 the forward limit of themovement of the welt guide may be varied at will. The slide bar 17 isnormally locked in its forward position by the engagement of a lockingpawl 21 with the ratchet teeth 22 formed upon the slide bar. The lockingpawl 21 is carried upon one arm of a cam-operated lever 23 which isactuated by a cam roll 24 running in a cam path formed in the side of acam wheel mounted upon the driving shaft 2.

This cam path is so timed with relation to other parts of the machinethat the cam roll 2st will actuate the lever to raise the pawl '21against the tension of the spring 25,,

which-norm ally holds it in engagement with ratchet teeth 22, andrelease said locking pawl from the bar 17 while the work is fedforwardly and the needle penetrates the work. This locking device andits release are substantially the same as that described in theabove-mentioned French and Meyer patent. The welt guide is arrangedto'be v withdrawn from the work upon the reversal of the machine by theretraction of the sliding bar 17 sufliciently to permit the shoe to bedisengaged from the channel guide and easily removed. A pin 26projecting from the side of the sliding bar is adapted to be engaged bya finger 27 which is rigidly carried upon. a shaft 28 journaled in themachine frame. The outer end of the shaft 28 is provided with a slottedarm'29 which is engaged by a pin on the. link 13 when said link isdepressed by the engagement of the notch 14: with the teeth 15 when theoperating shaft is turned in a reverse direction. The downward motion ofthe link 13 is held thereto by a clamping screw 86 engagcommunicated tothe slotted arm 29, turning the shaft 28 and moving the finger 27against the pin 26, thus retracting the sliding bar 17 together with thewelt guide 16. The notch 14 is so positioned upon the cam shaft withrespect to the cam which operates the release lever 23 that the slidebar will be retracted on a. reverse rotation of the shaft at the timewhen the locking pawl 21 is disengaged.

The welt guide 16 may be slightly withdrawn from the work by theretraction of the sliding bar 17 during the work feeding part of eachcycle of the stitch forming operation. This retract-ion may be impartedto'the-sliding bar 17 by the engagement of a swinging pawl 30 with theratchet teeth 31 carried upon the sliding bar The pawl 30 is normallyheld in engagement with the ratchet teeth 31 by a s ring 32, and isgiven a swinging motion btlQi and forth along the line of the slide barby a lever 33, upon whose end said pawl is pivotally mounted. The lever33 receives an oscillator motion from the cam roll 34 carried by heupper end thereof and running in a cam path formed in the side of a camwheel carried by the shaft 2. When the pawl 30 is swung backwardly, itengages the teeth 31 and moves back the slide bar 17. \Vhen the pawl isswung forwardly it rides over a shield 35 which lifts its point fromengagement with the ratchet teeth 31, and allows the slide bar 17 tofreely move forwardly under the tension of the spring. To vary the pointof engagement and disengagement of the pawl 30 y from the ratchet teeth31 and thus determine the amount of retractive movement that it impartsto the sliding bar 17, the shield is adjustable upon the machine frameand the sliding bur back a predetermined distance regardless ofthickness of the work The welt guide 16' is mounted upon the forwardlyextending arm 38 of a lever 39 which is pivotally mounted to oscillatein a horizontal plane about a fulcrum pin 40 on an otl'set bracket 4iwhich rigidly secured to the forward end of the sliding bar 1?. Thesliding bar 17 has a spline 4-2 engaging in a suitable groove in thebracket i1 and an ad 3' ustment between the bracket and sliding bar issecured by a clamping screw 42-3 engaging through a slot M: in thesliding bar. The forwardly extending arm 38 is oli'set to the right tosome extent so that when the lever 35) is oscillated about its pivot thewelt guide 16 carried upon the end of the offset arm welt guide to theright and to the rear is thus along the lead of the welt insubstantially the same plane in which the welt normally lies initsapproach to the work. The lever 39 has a rearwardly extending armformed with a recess 45 in which is journaled a cylindrical block 46,which is also free to slide longitudinally in the recess. Thecylindrical block 46 is transversely bored to form a journaled and asliding bearing for the end of a pin 47 which extends forward from thelower end of a lever 48. The lever 48 is adapted to be oscillated in avertical plane about a fulcrum 49 which secures it to the machine frame.The swinging motion of the pin 47 is communicated through the slidingblock 46 to the lever 39. The sliding ongagement of the block 46 in itsrecess and the journaled and sliding engagement of the pin 47 in theblock ll; allows the motion of the pin 4. which is swung from a pivot 49upon a fixed part of the machine frame, to be communicated to the weltguide lever which is pivoted upon the sliding bar '7 which is movablerelatively to the machine frame on a line inclined to the horizontal.The lever receives its oscillatory motion through a link 50 which ispivoted at 51 to the upper end of said lever. The other end of the linko0 is pivoted at 52 to the forwardly ofi'set arm 53 of a lever 54- whichis pivotally mounted to oscillate about a pin carried by the the machineframe. The lever 54- is formed of two npproximalelv parullcl arms 56 and57 which ail'ord two somewhat separated bearings upon either end of thepin whose middle. portion is held in a bored lug 58 upon the machineframe. The somewhat separated bearings of the two arms 56 and 57 uponthe pin 55 preventthe lever from twisting about a vertical axis andbinding against the pivot pin. which it would have a tendency to do incase a single bearing were employed. since the point at which it appliesits force to the link 50 is oilset forwardly from; the lever. The lever5% receives its oscillatory motion from a reciprocating link 59. The endof the link 59 is received by the bifurcated end of a sliding bar (30which actuates the swinging back rest to be hereafter described. A pin(31 pivotully connects the link 59 to the bar (30. The ends of the pin 1extend laterally from the sliding bar (-30 and are journalcd in blocks62 whichare slidably mounted in recesses 63 formed in the bifurcatedlower end of the lever 54.

The sliding engagement of the blocks 62 in the recesses 63 allows thereciprocatory motion of the end of the link 59 t9 be transformed into anoscillatory motion of the le ver 54. The link 59 receives itsreciprocatory motion from a lever 64 to the lower end of' which it is'pivotally connected by a pin 65 adjustably held in a curved slot 66.The lever 64 is given an oscillatory motion by means of a cam roller 67-which runs in a cam path 68 formed in the periphery of a cam Wheelcarried by the driving shaft 2. The lever 64 has an oscillatory motionof a fixed amount, but the amount of movement which it communicates tothe link 59 may be varied by adjusting the position of the pivot pin 65in .the curved slot 66 at the lower end ofthe lever 64. The motion ofthe lever 64 is thus ,communicated throu h the connecting'chain of linksand levers to the welt guide16 which is positively oscillated about itsivot to give it' a motion in the direction of cod and toward the surfaceof the work, and a motion backwardly along the line of feed and awayfrom the surface of the work. Since the welt in its approach to the shoelies in a plane which'is slightly inclined to the surface of the shoe,the movement of the welt guide is in substantially the same plane inwhich the welt normally lies, so that when the welt guide is movedbackwardly the welt will be freely drawn or measured through the weltguide and when'the welt guide is moved forwardly the welt will be movedagainst the surface of the work and slightly gathered thereon. Thedegree to which the welt' is gathered against the shoe may be varied byvarying the amount of moveiner' imparted to the welt guide. If the weltguide be moved backwardly to measure off a length of welt equal to thedistance that the shoe is fed, the welt will be merely laid against theshoe and not gathered. However, if the welt guide be moved backwardly tomeasure oil' a length of welt greater than the distance that the shoeisfed, the forward movement of the welt guide will cause it to move inthe direction of feedslightly faster than the shoe, and-will crimp' orgather the welt against the shoe. The amount of gathering, if any, whichit is desired to give to the welt may be determined for any particularmachine by suitably proportioning the welt guide mechanism.

. oted, which prevents the welt from being drawn away from the shoe bythe backward pull of the needle through it or by the measuringmovementof the welt guide. Since the offsetting of the welt guide to oneside of its pivot point causes its oscillatory movement to-move itforward against the surface of the work and to retract it from thesurface of the work, it'is possible to entirely dispense with theretracting pawl '30, together with its operating means, for withdrawingthe sliding bar, and thus considerably simplifythe construction of themachine. Or, if it is so desired, the pivoted welt guide maybe used inconjunction with the pawl retracted slide bar, as illustrated in thepresent construction. It is to be under.- stood, however, that the useof the pivoted welt guide mounted upon a forwardly spring-pressed slidebar which is not provided with retracting means, or the use of the weltguide pivoted directly to the frame of the machine, is contemplatedwithin the spirit of the invention.

The back rest 70 isformed on the. front of a bell crank lever 71 whichis pivot-ally mounted at 72 upon the offset forward end ofa sliding bar73. The work engaging face of the back rest is curved on the arc of acircle with the pivot point 72 as a center so that as the back restoscillates about its pivot, the surface of the back rest is swung alongthe direction of feed without movement of approach to or recession fromthe work. The sliding bar 73 is pressed forwardly by a spiral spring 74and is locked in its forward position during a part of the, stitchforming operation. by a pawl 75 and ratchet wheel 7 6. The constructionand op oration of said spring and said bar locking,

bell crank lever 80 is fulcrumed at 81 to the sliding bar 73 and carriesat the end of its other arm a sliding block 82 which is held in a box 83to freely slide in a, direction parallel to the direction in which thebar 73 is slidable. The box 83 is rigidly mounted upon one end of thesliding bar 60 which recipmcatcs in the machine frame at right angles tothe direction in which bar 73 is slid-able. I

The motion imparted to the block 82 by the reciprocation of itscontaining box 83 oscillates the lever 80. The sliding engagement of theblock 82 in the box 83 allows 1* the reciprocalory motion of the bar 60to be transformed into an oscillatory motion of the lever 80, and alsoprovides for the transfer of motion between these parts regar ,lless ofthe position of the sliding'bar '73 in the machine, since it is evidentthat motion will be imparted to the block 82 in Whatever place it maychance to be in the box due to varying position of the sliding bar 73 towhich the lever 80 is fulcrunied. The sliding bar 60 pivotally rcceivesin its bifurcated end the link 59 which imparts a reciprocatory motionthereto, and which also, as previously described, actuatcs the weltguide mechanism. The motion of this common link and its actuating lever64 is communicatedthrough the above described system of links and leversto the back rest 70, which is thus given a motion to and fro along theline of feed of the work. The timing of the cam path 68 is such thatboth the welt guide and the back rest will swing along with the work andassist the feed point and channel guide when they feed the work inpreparation for a stitch, and that motion of the back rest and Weltguide backwardly along theJine of feed of the work to position the backrest and welt guide in preparation. for the next feeding movement andto' draw the welting strip through the welt guide, will take place whilethe work is positively locked-in position by the penetration of theneedle therethrough.

The welt guide is illustrated in detail in Fig. 12. The upper wall 84 ofthe welt receiving aperture is formed directly on the welt guide lever39 and has a rib 85 to engage in the groove in the welting strip 12.

. The front and lower walls of the welt re-.

cciving aperture are formed of a guide plate 86 whose two ends haveslots 87 for the reception of clamping screws 88 by which it isadjustably held to the arm 39. The clamping screws and slots allow theguide plate 86 to be adjusted to vary the depth of the welt receivingaperture to accommodate for welts' of different thickness. The back wallof the welt guiding aperture is formed by a gage piece '89. The threadfinger 90 is formed of two thread-engaging prongs 91 and 92 carried uponthe end of an arm 93 which rejects radially from a shaft 94. .The sha t94 is sliclabl'y received in a bushing 95 mounted in the bracket 96 ofthe machine frame. The interior of the bushing-95 is provided with aspiral slot 99 in which is engaged a pin 100 projecting from the shaftWhen the. shaft 94 is reciprocated, the pin 100 and. the spiral slot 99give the shaft 9-1 a motion of rotation as well as reciprocation, andmove the thread (finger in a. spiral path. The forward motion of thethread hi 121,- in the direction of the projection I z prongs 91. and 92so that the thread eng gcd between the prongs. The end of the shaftopposite to the thread finger'arzn is formed with an enlarged head 101which is received in'a recess 102 feigned in the'lower end of a bellcrank lever 103 pivoted at 1114. to the bracket 96. The oscillatorymotion of the bell crank lever 103 gives to the. shaft 94; areciprocal'ory motion, the ball, and socket connections allowing thehead 101 to both slide and turn in the recess 102. The other arm of thebell crank lever 103 is slotted at 105 and has adjustably clamped insaid slot a pin 106 to which pivoted one end f a. link 10?. The otherend of the link 107 is pivotally held at 108 on a sliding block 109whose reciprocation oscillates .thebell crank lever 103. The mljustnientof the pin 106 in the slot 105 allows the amount of oscillal'ion givento the hell crank lever by the reciprocation of the block 109 to bevaried. The block 109 is slidably held in a suitable box 110 which isrigidly mounted upon. the machine frame. The. sliding block 109 bearsupon its upper end a roller 111 which is received in a cam path 1112 cutin the side of a cam roller 11 mounted upon the driving shaft-2 o'l 'tle machine. The timing of the cam path 11:2 is such that the threadfinger 90 will engage the thread and carryit behind the point of theneedle 8 after the needle has penetrated the work.

The looper-eye 114 which coiiperotes with the thread finger inthreadingthe oar-h of the needle is carried on a block 11;. stidablv'mounted in the bifurcated l wer end 1.16 of Point 118. The lower arm"of the lever 11.

is longitudinally recessed to receive a sliding bar 121 to whose lowerend is rigidly secured the bleck 115. The upper end of the bar 121 lrassecured thereto a head 122 which is laterally recessedto slidalilyreceive a block which is pivotally mounted at 125 on one arm of a bellcrank lever 12% which 18 fulcrumed at 127 to an ear formed upon thelever arm'117. The other arm of the bell crank lever 126 is formed withsegmental gear teeth .128 which mesh with the segmental gear teeth 129formed upon the head 119'. When the lever 11.; is turned about the pivotpin 118 to move the looper eye outwardly, the fulcrum 127 of the hell.crank lever 126 will also move outwardly from beneath the head 119. Thegear teeth 128 are, however, held by their meshing engagement with thegear teeth 129 so that the bell crank lever 126 is turned and the bar121 moved downwardly,which imparts to the locper eye a motion downwardlyas well as forwardly.- The looper lever 11? receives its motion from acam wheel 130 mounted on the driving shaft of the machine. A roller 131borne upon theupper end of the lever 11? is received in a cam groove 132out in the periphery of the cam wheel 130 and oscillates the lever 117about the aXis of the pivot pin 120. The upper and of the lever 117 alsobears two rollers 133 which bear against peripheral cam surfaces13iformed on the periphery of the cam wheel 130. The cam rollers 133give the lcver-1l7 a movement of oscillation about the" pin 118. The camrollers 133 are held in engagement with peripheral cam surfaces 134-. bya spring 135 which is received in a suitable recess formed in a bracketarm 1136 of the machine frame. One end of the spring 135 is held againstan adj listing screw 137 while the ot-her end presses downwardly againsta sliding block 138 in which is formed a socket 139 receiving one end ofa ball-ended link 140 whose other end is received in a similar socket141 formed on the top of the lever arm 117. The form and timing of thecam paths .which actuate the looper lever is such that after the threadfinger has engaged and carried a bight of thread behind the point of theneedle, the looper eye will move forwardly and downwardly in a curvedpath around the side of and to the front of the needle, drawing thethread into the needle barb, The end of the needle durin the loopingoperation is directed forwar and upward atan angle of about 15 to thehorizontal, while the supporting point of the lever 117 is substantiallyvertically above the looper eye and therefore at one side of the axis ofthe end portion of the needle shank The combined oscillatory movement ofthe lever 117 and the reciprocatory i'i'u'ivement 0f the bar 121 causethe looper eye ill to travel about the barbed end of the needle in acurved path lying in a plane approximately normal to the end of theneedle, so that the 'bight of thread between the thread finger andlooper is laid in the needle barb more nearly at right angles to theneedle shank and the needle does not need to be projected as farforwardly as would be necessary if the looper eye did not moverelatively to the looper lever, in which case the looper eye would moveforwardly in a curved path lying in an approximately horizontal plane.

The operation of the machine, particularly that of the improvements inwhich the present invention is embodied, is as follows: Starting in theposition shown in Fig. 4, in which the feed point and channel guide havejust engaged the work, the feed point and channel guide are moved alongto feed the work. Sin'niltaneously with the movement of the feed point,the back rest and welt guide are swung along in the direction of feed ofthe work. the. \velt guide moving into engagement with the work andpressing along the line of feed in preparation for the next feedingstroke, as shown in Fig. 8, the welt guide measuring OK the welt-for thenext stitch. After the needle has pierced the work and is held in itsforward position, the thread finger moves to the right in a spiral path,catching the-thread between its prongs and taking a bight of threadacross the place of oscillation of the needle above the horizontalportion of the needle shank and behind the barbed end ofthe needle, theparts assuming the position shown in Fig. 7. The looper now moves in acurved path forwardly in front of the needle and downwardly, laying thethread across the needle and pulling it into the needle barb, the partsassuming the position shown in Fig. 8. After the needle is threaded, itis retracted and the feed point and channel guide again engage the work,as shown in Fig. 4, which completes one cycle of the stitch forming andwork feeding operations. Since the thread finger moves behind the needleand the motion of the looper is forwardly and alongthe path curved onlysufliciently to lay the thread against the barb of the needle. theneedle on its retraction will draw the thread through the work in anuntwisted loop, as illustrated in Fig. 4.

' While the preferred embodiment of the invention has been specificallyillustratedand described, it is to be understood, however, that thepresent invention is not limited to the exact details of the illustratedembodiment but may be otherwise embodied within the spirit of theinvention and the scope of the following claims:

1. An inseam shoe sewin machine having, in combination, stitch i ormiiegdevices including a curved hook needle, and a welt guide havingindependent movements of reciprocation at substantially right angles tothe direction of feed of the work and of oscillation toward and from theshoe suhstantially along the lead of the welt.

' 2. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch ormingdevices including a curved hook needle, a sliding bar arranged toreciprocate at an angle to the direction of feed of the work and a weltguide pivotally mounted upon the sliding bar to oscillate toward andfrom the shoe substantially along the lead of the welt.

3. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in con'ibination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a sliding bar arrangedto reciprocate at substantially right angles to the feed of the work, awelt guide pivotally mounted on said bar to oscillate toward and fromthe shoe substantially along the lead of the welt and means including asliding connection for oscillating the welt guide independently of themovement of the sliding bar.

4. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices including a curved hook needle, a welt guide pivotally mountedto swing on an axis substantially at right angles to the surface of thewelt and olfset to one side of its pivot point whereby is given motionto approach and. recede from the work it is oscillated about its pivot,and means for oscillating saidwelt guide about its pivot.

5. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices including a curved hook. needle, a sliding bar, a welt guidepivotally mounted upon said bar, to swing on an axis substantially atright angles to the surface of the welt, said welt guide being oliset toone side of its pivot point, means for moving the said bar forwardly tomove the welt guide toward the surface of the work, and means foroscillating said welt guide about its pivot to give it an additionalmovement toward the surface of the work.

6. An inseam shoe sewin machine having, in combination, stitch ormingdevices including a curved hook needle, a Welt guide pivotally mountedto swing on an axis substantially at right angles tothe surface of thewelt, and means to positively oscillate the welt guide about its pivotto cause it to approach the work in anarc of a circle while the work isbeing fed and to recede backwardly along the same are after the feedingmovement of the work has taken place.

-7. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices incliuling a curved hook needle, a welt guide and means formoving the welt guidetoward and from the work substantially along thelead of the welt.

8. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices including a curved hookneedle, mechanism for feedingthe workincluding a member arranged to engage the channel of a lasted insole,and a welt guide arranged to be moved toward the work substantiallyalong the lead of the welt.

9. An inseam shoe sewing machine, hav-

